More importantly, I know well, based on my own experience, even the well-set correct Yosemite Bowline can get loose during a course of a day. Double Bowline Knot. Follow @masasakano There are documented accidents of every other version of the Bowline (coming loose even if done correctly), but not one of the Double Bowline. See more ideas about bowline knot, knots, camping knots. You can tie back to / belay from the rope loop as with fig. No stopper knot required (that's the point of the Yosemite finish). Let’s examine. It has been pointed out that if the knot is not dressed correctly, it can potentially collapse into a noose,[1][2][3][4] however testing reveals this alternative configuration to be strong and safe as a climbing tie-in.[5]. Seems like the double-bowline (or rethreaded, or whatever it's called when the bowline goes twice through the harness) is safer after all? This finish can also be used with other knots, such as the figure 8. I doubt if Edwards Bowline is widely used in the UK, let alone outside (n.b., the name comes from the Cornish climbing legend, the Edwards). As such it is your go-to knot for most practical knot work. [8], It is recommended that any knot which is used to attach a rope to a safety harness is always finished with a stopper knot. The failure mode is induced by pulling on the tail before the core of the knot has been properly cinched tight. Thank you for your comment, Mark. Reply: This statement is factually incorrect. There is no such failure mode - the original poster on the IGKT website is not a licenced test laboratory or an expert on knot testing. Honestly, the bowline on a bight with my special finishing "bowline Yosmeite finish" variation is the only version I would use. Many modern climbers prefer one of its variants to the standard Bowline because they are supposed to address the disadvantages of the Bowline, especially the first one in the above-mentioned list. I have never heard of any quantitative assessment of the knot. The tail should be a minimum of 10cm but depends on the thickness of the rope. Should we ban screw-gate carabiners? You should remove your link to the alleged failure mode of Scotts locked Bowline because it is false. After all, Yosemite Bowline is, like any other Bowline variants, more awkward to dress well than the standard Bowline. DO NOT USE IT WHEN WINTER CLIMBING. — Quest for climbing without avoidable risks, Submitted by masa on Wed, 2017-08-02 21:57. A rope fastened near the middle of the leech or perpendicular edge of the square sails, by subordinate ropes, called bridles, and used to keep the weather edge of the sail tight forward, when the ship is closehauled. Complete Knot List | Alphabetical list of all Knots | Animated Knots … [6] If you are trying to compare the #1047 Figure 8 eye knot against 'a' 'Bowline' - you need to compare it to one of the secure Bowlines. Note that they all are to some extent more awkward to dress (or set) the knot properly, and hence the caution in tying is still essential. The Yosemite bowline is just a simple bowline with a Yosemite finish. The video fails to show a correct tightened knot, and also fails to ever show the backup knot that is always tied. Scotts locked Bowline is inherently secure and is fit for purpose in climbing applications. The other tutorial is the standard one that is featured in most of my tutorials. (to receive new contents via email) The only downside to the Yosemite Bowline is that it is more difficult to visually inspect. Bowline relies for a part of its strength on an additional stopper knot — in other words, if a stopper knot is not tied (or is undone, as it happens occasionally especially after a prolonged use), it is weaker, and the rope-end may travel through under a high load, even to the point of complete destruction of the knot. Yosemite Tie-Off. Should we ban all harnesses with manual buckles that require the person to feed the belt material back through the buckle to lock it? The double bowline is one of the typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with the figure eight follow through [3] [4] and the Yosemite bowline. This is one of those often-debated topics in the climbing community. Submitted by ND (not verified) on Tue, 2020-05-05 19:29, Safety incident report involving Scott's Lock Bowline when snagged: https://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=6773.msg44540#msg44540, Submitted by Mark Gommers (not verified) on Wed, 2020-05-06 23:04. Therefore, when the knot is tightened under a load, it constricts its own tail-end, and so reduces the risk of getting weakened due to lack of (or undone) stopper knot. Bowline knot tutorial. An inherently secure knot is one that does not require any form of 'backup stopper knot' to lock-down the structure. Yosemite Bowline knot has served me well so far. I would like to switch to the Yosemite bowline knot. The Yosemite Bowline was an attempt to address the insecurity of the simple (#1010) Bowline. (Google images of "sheet bend", which is bowline-like : that is usually presented from the helpful side; but bowline, almost never.). This knot is sometimes used as a "tie-in", to attach the rope to the climber's harness, instead of the standard figure eight follow through.It has the advantage over the figure eight of being easier to untie after the knot has been weighted. You have completely missed the key underlying issue! Quote from Masa: Yosemite Bowline or Bowline with Yosemite Tie Off – We all know that the Bowline is a nice secure loop for the end of a rope, maybe not as secure as we think. [6] The Mountaineering Handbook is one of the few texts that suggest that the Yosemite bowline is better for this purpose. This question is for testing whether or not you are a human visitor and to prevent automated spam submissions. Suggested benefits of the bowline include being easier to untie after loading or when wet and frozen, and being possible to tie-in with only one hand. Double Yosemite bowline – It is a double bowline knot with a Yosemite finish for added security. I can tie it faster than a rethreaded fig-8 and it is still easy to undo after a good lob. Bowline is especially vulnerable for cross-loading. Presumably, when you use the word 'Bowline' - you might in fact be referring to #1010 Common Bowline. Bowline is more difficult for partners to check (partly because many modern climbers don't know it in the first place). When finished, the working end forms a figure eight. Reply: I had given links to various papers on Bowlines and knots in general. Mark Gommers, Submitted by Eugene Kim (not verified) on Tue, 2020-01-07 06:06. The double bowline is one of the typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with the figure eight follow through and the Yosemite bowline. Sailors use the bowline to fasten halyards and other rigging which require a super-secure connection. The cowboy bowline has the working end go around the standing part on the side closer to the loop and results with the working end outside the loop. Bowline can be undone accidentally, especially in a course of a long day. In other words, if you tie-in using one the inherently secure Bowlines, it is perfectly fine and does not require any form of backup stopper knot. I've fallen on this knot over and over, I've used it in 11mm singles and 8.5 doubles and it's always been a champ. The Figure 8 Knot - Climbing Magazine Your video explaining the failure mode of the Bowline with 'Yosemite finish' is incorrect. If you are going to tie-in with 'a' Bowline - you should select and use one of the inherently secure Bowlines. 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